Auto Block On Double Rope Rappel

Wyatt hansen 15 201 views.

Auto block on double rope rappel.

The knot is the best back up simply because it does two jobs exceedingly well. Use the lower hand to feed the rope up through the belay device while the top hand moves the auto block down the rope so it doesn t tighten. The autoblock knot an easy to tie friction knot or hitch that is tied around a climbing rope with a thin length of cord is used as a safety back up knot when you re rappelling. We observed less resistance with some of the single strand devices however in our testing with a 9 5 mm sterling rope and a petzl attache carabiner we found the resistance with the.

Setting up rappel device for double rope rappel duration. Basics to keep in mind. It needs to be short enough so it can t get caught in the belay device which would render it useless. It locks under load and unlike all other friction knots it releases while still under load.

A 5 5mm sewn rope sling made with technora aramid core and nylon sheath. It is unique in that it is a fully certified 22kn sling that can be used anywhere a normal sling is used. How to use an auto block to backup your rappel. French prusik knot auto block rappel backup duration.

In a multi pitch rappel setting this decreases the likelihood of ropes getting stuck and provides the security of a closed system. Top belaying with the device is called guide or reverso mode and offers an auto blocking advantage on the rope if the climber were to fall. Presenter darrell weston videographer matt blecharz. For those just starting with any type of rock climbing including rappelling remember the following basics.

Auto block resistance belaying a second high friction in auto block mode plagued all the devices capable of double rope rappels especially the smart alpine. One of the most common mistakes is the failure to capture both strands of a double rope rappel in the rappel device. Obsession climbing 20 250 views. Auto block tubular belay devices have an additional metal loop on the side.

At the bottom or the next anchor call off rappel to your belayer. The loop is used when setting up the belay device at an anchor so that the belayer can top belay a second.